Gem Lesson: Amethyst

Amethyst, the birthstone for the month of February and frequently celebrated as the stone of royalty, is a captivating variety of quartz. This stunning gem forms in large geodes found within volcanic rock, showcasing its rich hues and remarkable beauty. Its striking color and deep historical significance make it a favorite among gemstone enthusiasts and collectors alike.

Amethyst Geode

Here is an example of an amethyst geode that illustrates the geological process of mineral formation. It displays the delicate layers of agate, which formed initially, followed by the later crystallization of amethyst. This sequence reflects the intricate processes of mineral deposition and crystallization within volcanic rock environments.

Amethyst crystals can grow to impressive sizes, often exceeding 100 pounds. They can even form in hollow geodes large enough for a person to stand inside. One of the largest amethyst geodes in the world is known as the Empress of Uruguay.

Until the 19th Century, Russia was the main source of amethyst until large deposits were found in Brazil. Once as rare as rubies or emeralds, now are found in abundance. Today, amethyst can be found in many places and can be enjoyed by everyone all over the world. The most important places it comes from are Africa, South America and Brazil. The largest portion of amethysts that hit the markets comes mainly from Brazil and Uruguay; more specifically Minas Gerais, Artigas and the Rio Grande do Sul

Here is an amethyst mine in Bolivia called the Anahi Mine. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA


Throughout history, amethysts were regarded as equally valuable as emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. Their rich, deep purple hue has captivated royals since ancient times, with admiration for the stone dating back to the era of Alexander the Great. This esteemed gem has long been associated with power and prestige, making it a cherished favorite among the elite.

Here is the renowned bib-style necklace commissioned by the Duchess of Windsor from Cartier in 1947. This breathtaking piece made its debut, accompanied by matching earrings, at the Gala a l'Orangerie ball in Versailles in June 1953.

The necklace features 28 exquisite step-cut amethysts, a striking oval faceted amethyst serving as the clasp, and a prominent heart-shaped amethyst at the center front. Additionally, it is adorned with turquoise cabochons and brilliant-cut diamonds, all elegantly suspended from a luxurious rope gold chain. This stunning creation remains a highlight of the N. Walsh Cartier Collection @ Cartier.

Princess Diana’s “The Fleurée” Amethyst and Diamond Encrusted Cross Pendant

This stunning amethyst cross pendant, crafted circa 1920 by the esteemed royal jeweler Gerrard, exemplifies a rich history that dates back to 1735 when Gerrard became the first official Crown jeweler, renowned for creating iconic pieces for the Royal Family. Originally known as “The Fleurée Cross,” it is now referred to as the “Attallah Cross.” This exquisite pendant is set with square-cut amethysts and accented by a total of 5.25 carats of circular-cut diamonds.

The renowned jewelry house Gerrard crafted the fleurée-style amethyst cross pendant around 1920, believed to be a unique private commission for a valued client. In the 1980s, the late Naim Attallah, an executive at Garrard, acquired the cross and frequently loaned it to Princess Diana. One of the most memorable occasions occurred in October 1987, when she wore the cross with a baroque-style purple and black velvet dress designed by Catherine Walker & Co. at a charity fundraiser for Birthright, one of her patronages. This event, held at Garrard’s flagship location on Regent Street in London, showcased two bold choices that reflected the young princess’s growing self-assurance in her fashion and jewelry.

Following Princess Diana's tragic death in 1997, the Attallah Cross was carefully stored away and remained unseen in public for many years, having not been worn since the days when Diana borrowed it from the jewelry firm. It stayed in this quiet repose until the family decided to sell it at auction. A month prior to the Sotheby’s sale, the cross was displayed in London, offering a rare glimpse of this iconic piece of history once again..

Sotheby’s included the Attallah Cross pendant in its online “Royal & Noble” sale, which featured a curated selection of jewelry, furniture, ceramics, and decorative objects with aristocratic connections. The pre-sale estimate for the pendant was set at £80,000 to £120,000 ($96,000 to $144,000). As the auction drew to a close, four bidders competed for the piece in the final five minutes. Ultimately, a representative for Kim Kardashian emerged victorious, securing the pendant for £163,800 ($197,453), significantly surpassing its highest pre-sale estimate by over $50,000. Kim is now the proud owner of this historical and masterful piece of art.


Throughout time, amethyst has been steeped in a rich tapestry of myths, legends, and cultural significance across various religions and societies. The name "amethyst" is derived from the Greek word "Amethystos," meaning "a remedy against drunkenness," reflecting its association with temperance. This connection stems from the gem's wine-like color, leading early Greek mythology to link it to Bacchus, the God of wine.

According to myth, amethyst was created by Bacchus himself. In pursuit of a woman named Amethyste, who rejected his advances and prayed to the gods to remain chaste, Bacchus felt spurned. In a moment of remorse, the Goddess Diana transformed Amethyste into a white stone. Overcome with shame, Bacchus poured a goblet of wine over the stone as an offering, staining its crystals a vibrant purple.

Amethyst is believed to possess protective qualities, warding off drunkenness and promoting clarity of thought. The esteemed artist and thinker Leonardo da Vinci once noted that amethyst enhances intelligence and guards against negative thoughts. He further believed that the power of meditation was amplified when practiced in purple lighting, highlighting the stone’s spiritual significance throughout history.


 

Images credit: Mrs. Jones , Co blog & GIA.edu , Getty Images, Sothebys

*All photos are for educational purposes only. None are my actual photos. References from various sources.

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Gem Lesson: Peridot